A jack that works on pavement can be useless in sand or on a side slope. The recovery starts before the jack comes out.

Changing a tire in a driveway is a ten minute job. On a shelf road with a camber, loose surface and no room to stand on the downhill side, it becomes the most dangerous thing most overlanders do. The difference is almost entirely in what you do before the vehicle leaves the ground.
Driving a short distance on a flat ruins a tire but a ruined tire is cheaper than a rollover. Look for the widest, flattest, most solid ground within reach and take it, even if it means limping a hundred meters.
Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one coming off, in front and behind. On a slope use rocks as well. Park in gear or park, and set the handbrake.
Full weight on the tire, breaker bar, quarter turn on each. Trying to break loose nuts with the wheel in the air spins the wheel or pushes the vehicle off the jack.
A factory jack sinks into sand, gravel and soft shoulder. Use a board, a MaxTrax, a flat rock or a purpose made base plate. Jacking on an unstable base is the moment vehicles come down on people.
Find the reinforced lift point in your manual, not a random bit of the frame or a control arm. Lift just enough to clear the tire, and never put any part of your body under the vehicle while it is on a jack.
Lay the removed wheel flat under the rocker or frame rail. If the jack fails, the vehicle lands on that instead of on the ground or on you.
Snug in a star while the wheel is still lightly loaded, lower fully, then torque properly in the same pattern. Recheck after roughly fifty miles, because wheels do loosen after a change.
Position, chock, crack the lugs, build a solid base, lift minimally, put the flat under the frame, star pattern, recheck at fifty miles.
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