Dropping pressure lengthens the contact patch dramatically. It is free, it is reversible, and most people do it too little.

Lowering tire pressure lengthens the tire footprint, which spreads weight, improves grip on sand and rock, and softens the ride enough to stop shaking your vehicle apart on washboard. The catch is that a soft tire can unseat from the rim under side load, and driving aired down on pavement destroys tires and handling. Never air down without a way back up.
Measure cold pressure at the trailhead, not at highway temperature after two hours of driving. Write it on a card in the glovebox so airing back up is not guesswork.
As a rough starting range for a stock vehicle on all terrain tires, mild dirt and washboard take a modest drop, sand takes a large one, and slow technical rock takes a large one as well. Start conservative, feel the difference, and adjust. Heavier vehicles and loaded rigs run higher than light ones.
Uneven pressure changes handling and wear noticeably. Deflators that screw onto the valve and stop at a set pressure make this trivial.
Aired down tires unseat from sharp steering at speed. Keep speed low and inputs smooth. This is the actual risk, not punctures.
If the sidewall is visibly bulging out past the tread, you are too low for anything other than sand at walking pace.
Every time, all four, back to your written number. Running low pressure on the highway overheats the sidewall and is how blowouts happen.
Air down for the surface, keep it even, drive slow and smooth, and air back up before you touch pavement. Carry the compressor first, then air down.
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